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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee well-known award-winning venues. However, situated near the top among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. The honour has left the family totally shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” remarks a family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest place earning such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this eatery more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender texture.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own premises. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.